To the lowland cartographers who first heard the name whispered in the 1920s, it was a nonsense phrase, surely a prank by guides or a garbled translation. They dutifully recorded “Sweetmook” as a possible corruption of the local Swe-Tamuk (“One who turns waste to warmth”), and “Dung Dung” as an onomatopoeic reference to the hollow thump-thump of a dried patty being tapped for quality. But they missed the forest for the trees. Or rather, they missed the dung for the pasture.

When asked by a young herder if the title will end when the highest pastures are gone, Lord Dung Dung the 15th laughed, a sound like two dry stones clacking together. “Foolish child,” he said. “There is no highest pasture. There is only the next one. And as long as a yak eats grass and a human needs warmth, there will be a Sweetmook Lord. Perhaps the 16th will live on the moon. Their dung will be starlight and dust. And it will burn just fine.”

Lord Dung Dung the 15th is a small, surprisingly cheerful man of about sixty years, with eyes that crinkle like dried apples and hands stained a permanent brownish-green. He presides over a domain of three valleys and approximately 1,200 yaks. His duties are crucial. He determines the weekly “combustion schedule”—which pasture’s dung is ready for cooking fires, which for temple braziers (a sweeter, slower burn), and which, when mixed with clay and ash, becomes the famous “black bricks” used to insulate the village granary.