Zagreb, 1978. A young curator named Ana stood before a massive, brutalist monument on the outskirts of the city. It was a futuristic flower, a concrete bud with metal stamens. Beneath it lay the Hall of Memory. Her job was to catalogue the gifts given to Tito.
As the funeral train passes, the man snaps the wooden baton over his knee. The sharp crack echoes through the crowd. Others hear it. Other batons break. It is not an act of anger. It is an act of terrible realization. The relay is over. The fifth Yugoslavia—the one Tito built from war, spite, and sheer will—was a race without a second runner. tito v
It is May 5, 1980, two days after his death. A long, low train carries his casket from Ljubljana to Belgrade. Millions line the tracks. Not in silence, but in a deep, shuddering cry. A man in a faded blue worker’s jacket, a Bosnian Muslim, holds his young son on his shoulders. The son holds a wooden baton—the kind Tito’s relay runners used to carry. Zagreb, 1978